Cycle Satchel

MadeByMarzipan’s Cycle Satchel is a useful bag for your bike! Fits child or adult bikes.


Let’s begin by talking about fabric choices. Because this bag is designed for outdoor use, it’s a good idea to choose a fabric that’s water-resistant. You can use oilcloth, or a vinyl tablecloth. Or you can select an outdoor canvas that’s specially treated to be mildew-resistant, such as the one I used.

Take note of the fabric care instructions listed on the bolt of cloth. If your fabric can withstand ironing, it will make your finished project tidier if you press your seams as you go.

How to:

Start by cutting your fabrics to the measurements listed.

Outer Fabric:

  • 8.5 x 7 in. (2, main front / main back)
  • 7 x 5 in. (2, sides)
  • 8.5 x 5 in. (1, bottom)
  • 8.5 x 11 in. (1, flap)
  • 4 x 8 in. (2, snap tabs)

Inner Fabric:

  • 8.5 x 7 in. (2, main front / main back)
  • 7 x 5 in. (2, sides)
  • 8.5 x 5 in. (1, bottom)
  • 8.5 x 11 in. (1, flap)
  • 11 x 7.5 (2, pockets)


We’ll begin with the bag lining. If you’ve watched my Stroller Bag tutorial, you’ll notice this bag follows many of the same steps. Sew the lining side panels to the lining bottom panel, sewing one to each short end with right sides together. Sew with a 1/2 inch seam.

Now we’ll pin one of the main lining rectangles to the strip we sewed. Line up the short side of the large rectangle with one of the outer strip segments. Right sides should be together. Pin. When you reach your seam joining the strips together, it’s time to turn the strip and pin it along the long side of the main piece. When you reach the next seam, turn again and pin the remaining side strip to the other short side of the main piece.

Sew the sides and bottom in place with a 1/2 inch seam. When you reach a corner, tug gently on the fabric diagonally; you want the corner to be free of pleats.

Finally, add the other main piece by pinning it to the rest of the bag, right sides together, matching up the edges. Sew with a 1/2 inch seam. Snip off the excess fabric at the corners, being careful not to cut your stitches. Set aside.

Bag Flap

Now we’ll move on to the bag flap. Lay the two bag flap pieces right sides together and pin. To round the flap, trace the edge of a plate and cut along the curve.

If you want to add trim to the pocket flap, do it now. I chose a 100% polyester ric-rac. Keep in mind that you’ll be sewing this with a 1/2 inch seam, so pin accordingly.

Lay the other flap piece on top, right sides together, and pin. Sew along the sides and curve, leaving the straight short edge open.

Cut off the excess trim. Then notch the curved seam, being careful not to snip your stitches. Turn the flap right side out.

Add a 1/8 inch topstitch around the edge of the flap. Consider using a contrasting thread for a pop of color.

Side Panels & Pockets

Find the two pocket pieces (inner fabric pattern). Fold them in half so they measure 5.5 x 7.5 inches and press along the fold. The pattern should be on the outside. Sew a seam a half-inch below the fold to create a casing for the elastic.

Change your machine to a basting stitch, or the longest stitch available. Sew along the bottom raw edge of the side pocket pieces with a 1/4 inch basting stitch. Do not backstitch.

Gently pull on the bottom thread to ruffle the fabric. Adjust the fabric so that it fits the bottom of the side pocket panel. Pin in place, lining up the raw edges of both pieces.

Now we’ll need the elastic. Cut 6 inches of elastic for each pocket. Use a safety pin to thread it through the casing. Pin the sides of the pocket panel to the side panel.  Pull the elastic taut so that the pocket panel fits the dimensions of the side panel. Pin the ends of the elastic to the sides of the pocket piece.

Sew the sides and bottom of the pocket to the side panel with a 1/4 inch straight stitch, leaving the top open. Do this for both side pocket pieces.

Assembling Outer Bag

Assemble the outer bag as you did the lining. Pin the side pieces to the short ends of the bottom piece and sew with a 1/2 seam. Make sure that you are sewing along the bottom of the pockets.

Pin the side & bottom strip piece to the front bag piece. Sew with a 1/2 in. seam. Then sew the last main rectangle to the bag.


Fold the strap piece in half lengthwise and sew down the raw edge with a 1/2 inch stitch. Turn right side out.

Fold in one raw end of the tube and topstitch shut with a 1/8 inch seam. Continue adding a decorative topstitch all the way around the strap.

Assembling the Bag

To assemble the bag, turn the lining inside out. Pin the flap piece to the inside back of the bag, with the underside of the flap touching the back of the bag. Rather than lining up the flap with the top edge, extend the flap about an inch and a half past the edge of the bag to give it more durability.

Next add the straps. The seam of the straps should be face up (NOT against the flap). Line the raw edge of the strap up with the edge of the flap and pin in place.

Finally, make sure the outer bag is right side out, then slide it into the lining. Right sides will be touching. Match up the side seams and pin all the way around.

Sew with a 1/2 inch seam, leaving the front panel of the bag open for turning.  Turn right side out through the front opening.

Finishing the Bag

I’m going to use plastic canvas to stiffen my bag in a way that will be weather-proof. Cut pieces of canvas for the front and back, sides, and bottom of the bag. Fold them and gently insert through the front opening, sliding them into position.

Once your plastic is in place, fold in the edges of the front hole and topstitch shut. Your bag should be able to stand on its own now.

Now we’ll add the snaps. If you’d like, you can add two coats of high-quality nail polish to make your snaps match your bag. Fold the flap down and mark where your snap should go. The little hole punch tool that comes with the snap kit had no problem punching through the plastic canvas. Add snaps to the straps and to the panel of the bag. When adding to the straps, be certain that you add one half to the front of the strap, and the other on the backside of the strap.

Fold the flap down and snap. Use chalk to mark the line where the flap folds over the edge of the front piece. Topstitch along this mark and the flap will fold down more naturally along this line.

Attach to your bike and you’re ready to roll!

One last tip… a single hand stitch in each corner of the panels will prevent the plastic canvas from shifting.

Click to find more free sewing patterns for bags!

Made By Marzipan may have received product or payment for this post. Posts may contain affiliate links. Disclosed in accordance with the Federal Trade Commission's 16 CFR, Part 255.

22 thoughts on “Cycle Satchel

  1. Katie says

    I was just looking for a pattern like this! Thanks so much…one question though- what’s the finished size?

    • says

      It’s 6 inches high, 4 inches wide, and 8 inches long :) I wanted it to be small enough to fit on a child’s bike as well.

  2. Jane says

    I have been looking for good bike bag tutorials and was going to design my own, but this looks like it has everything I was looking for! Thank you!

  3. Alexa says

    I love bikes and marzipan, and this is definitely being added to my project list for my Bag of the Week blog. (

  4. says

    I’m so glad it works for you, Jane! Feel free to share pics of your finished bag right here :)

  5. cleo says

    My son and I went for quite a long bikeride and I had to carry everything … this is a wonderful solution!! Thanks for the brilliant share & tutorial

  6. says

    Glad you like it, Cleo :)

  7. KnottyGirl says

    Awesome job on your handbags…A++++ keep up the great work… :)

  8. Sue says

    Where can I buy the already made CYCLE SATCHEL?

    • says

      Sorry, Sue, I don’t sew items for sale. I just provide the project patterns :)

  9. Magdalena says

    It’s amazing! Better than basket. I’ll try to do it, but I think it won’t be so pretty as yours! :)

  10. Deb says

    Great tute but I can’t find the cutting length or width size of the straps. Or are they just figured out accordng to my bike handlebars?

    • says

      The straps are referred to as “snap tabs” in this tutorial :)

  11. Eva says

    I love this pattern! Will this be strong enough to carry small dogs such as chihuahuas? If not, what can I do to make it stronger? Thanks Marzipan! :)

    • says

      Eva, I wouldn’t recommend it. It’s still somewhat flexible so he might not be comfortable. The plastic needs to be flexible to fit through the small opening in step 23. If you used something stiffer, you’d have to leave the entire top unsewn, then stitch it all by hand after adding the inserts.

  12. shaunna says

    where did you get that fabric?!!?!

    • says

      I bought it at Joann’s, it was in the section with outdoor fabrics.

  13. Robbinsbobbins says

    Could I have permission to make for selling at craft fairs,etc?

  14. Clare says

    Off to the shop now to dig out some fabric! Hoping to make one to hang of my buggy for short journeys :) would you recommend also using laminated fabric or vinyl?

  15. This is such a useful bag, thanks for the great tutorial! The video makes it very easy to follow :)
    I posted a link to your tutorial on my blog, you can see it here:

  16. Catherine says

    This is almost exactly what I was looking for but I was wondering if anyone has made it insulated. I’d for my girls to carry lunch in it. In the summer that’s all they need.

    • says

      That’s a great idea! I know Joann sells the insulation material… I’m sure you could replace the interfacing with it.

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