Turn an old chandelier into a combination bird feeder & planter. Learn how to drill holes in tea cups for drainage.

Supplies:

• Old chandelier (check thrift stores & yard sales)
• Wire cutters
• Screwdriver
• Pliers
• Outdoor spray paint (optional)
• Teacups
• Glass & tile bit -or- diamond bit
• Electric drill
• Sandpaper
• E6000 glue
• Plants
• Birdseed
• Hook or plant hanger

How To:

You’ll need an old chandelier. My local thrift store almost always has a few. You can paint it if you don’t like the color or finish, and it doesn’t need to have the shades attached. Make sure that the arms of the chandelier point upright, or that you can adjust them to point upright.

1) We’re going to start by removing the shades with a screwdriver.

2) Next we’ll remove a lot of the wiring. Unscrew the chandelier’s pieces so you can access the wires. We’re removing the wiring that’s intertwined with the chain because it looks better without it. We’re also clipping the wires that attach to each of the arms, so we can remove the socket fixtures. Use wire cutters to snip and remove the wire.

3) We’ll also take off the cover plate attached to the chain. Separate the links of the chain by twisting in opposite directions with pliers. You can either remove the broken link or bend it back together.

4) Now we can remove the sockets. These are attached with a single screw. If you find it difficult to pull the wires through the arm, you can just lift them a bit to cut.

5) Adjust the arms to point upright, if they aren’t already. Now would be the time to paint the chandelier if you don’t like the finish. Be sure to select a spray paint that is formulated for metals and outdoor use. Spray outside on a warm day.

Drilling the teacups

We need our teacups to have good drainage if we want them to serve as planters. So we’ll need to drill holes in the bottom of our cups. To do this, you’ll need a Glass & Tile drill bit. A Diamond drill bit works as well, but costs twice as much.

1) Put on work gloves and safety goggles. Turn the cup upside down and pour a small amount of water on the bottom. This will keep the drill bit from overheating and will make a smoother cut.

2) Drill straight down, using firm pressure without being too forceful. Drilling into porcelain takes time, so you’ll have to be patient. It takes about four minutes per hole, and you’ll need two holes in each planter cup.  (There’s no need to drill the teacups you’ll be filling with birdseed.)

Attaching the teacups

1) If it’s possible to remove any pieces from the bottom so that the chandelier can sit flat on the table, do so.

2) Lightly sand the bottom of the teacups for better adhesion.

3) I’ll be using E6000 glue. I know I’ll get a lot of comments asking whether other glues will work, but I really feel that this is the best adhesive for the job. It’s waterproof, dries clear, and is flexible so it won’t get brittle. It works well on both metal and ceramics. You can find it in the hardware section with other industrial glues.

Place a small amount of glue around the rim on each chandelier arm. Add some glue to the bottom edge of the teacup as well. You’ll want to let these sit for about 5 minutes so the adhesive gets a little gummy, then press them together firmly.

4) Wait 24 hours before moving the chandelier, and wait 72 hours before hanging it outside or exposing it to water.

5) Once the adhesive has set, you can fill the drilled teacups with flowers or succulents. I’m also filling some cups with birdseed to attract birds to my garden. You could even stake small solar lights with the flowers so your chandelier would shine at night.

The Log Cabin quilt block is easy to piece and very scrap-friendly. Here’s how to make a Log Cabin block.

Supplies:

• Cotton fabrics
• Sewing machine & thread
• Iron
• Ruler
• Rotary cutter & mat (recommended)

How To:

Tips for Beginners: 

1) Let’s take a minute to go over a few tips for beginners. You can certainly use a ruler, fabric marking pen, and scissors to cut your pieces. But quilters know that a clear quilter’s ruler and a rotary cutter used with a cutting mat will give you accurate results more quickly.

To use a quilter’s ruler, match up the measurement line with the edge of the fabric. For this quilt block, I need strips that are two inches wide. So count over two inches, then line that mark up with the edge of your fabric. Stabilize the ruler with one hand and place the rotary cutter blade right next to the ruler’s edge. Don’t forget to place a cutting mat beneath your fabric! Press firmly and push the rotary cutter away from yourself to cut the fabric. You can cut several thicknesses of fabric at once with a rotary cutter, so you’ll save a lot of time.

2) Here’s another tip. I like to label clear plastic bags with the measurement of the pieces it will contain. Make one bag for each size, then hang them on the wall with pushpins, in the order that they will be used. This keeps your workspace clear and prevents you from mixing up your cut pieces. It also makes it easy to find a particular color or pattern of fabric quickly.

3) One last suggestion: if possible, set up an ironing board at chair-height right next to your sewing table. You’ll be pressing after every seam, so you’ll save a lot of time if you can just swivel in your chair to use the iron.

Cutting The Pieces

The Log Cabin block is made up of a center square, surrounded by 12 strips that spiral outward. Here are the pieces you’ll need to cut for one block:

• (1) 3.5 x 3.5 in. square
• (1) 2 x 3.5 in. strip
• (2) 2 x 5 in. strips
• (2) 2 x 6.5 in. strips
• (2) 2 x 8 in. strips
• (2) 2 x 9.5 in. strips
• (2) 2 x 10.5 in. strips
• (1) 2 x 12 in. strip

Assembling the block

1) The Log cabin block is very easy to assemble. Begin by placing the 2 x 3.5 inch piece face-down on the center square piece, lining them up along the right edges. Sew down the right edge with a ¼ inch seam. (You’ll use a ¼ inch seam throughout the block.)

2) It’s very important to stop and press each seam after you sew it. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a puckered or crooked block. For the Log Cabin Block, I like to press on the right side of the fabric, pushing outward from the center.

3) To add the next piece, just turn your block counterclockwise a quarter of a turn. You’ll be sewing a 2 x 5 inch piece to the next edge.  Again, sew along the right edge with a ¼ inch seam and press.

4) Rotate the block counterclockwise once again. Sew the second 5 inch strip to the square as you did the other pieces, then press.

5) Turn the block counterclockwise again and sew the 6.5 inch strip at the top of the center block. Are you getting the hang of it now?

6) Rotate counterclockwise and add the other 6.5 inch strip to the right of the square.

7) Here’s where you’ll notice that some of your strips are a bit too long. That’s okay, it’s much easier to cut them a tad too long than to worry about fussy measurements.

You have two choices: (1) you can leave the excess and it will become a part of your seam allowance. If you do that, be sure that you’re lining up the next piece with the long straight edge of the block, not the excess flap of fabric.  Or, (2) you can grab your fabric scissors and quickly snip off the extra fabric before you sew.

8) Add the remaining strips in the order they are listed.

I’ll be using 54 of these 12-inch blocks to create a twin-size quilt with overhang and no sash. Show off your completed block by uploading a photo in the comments section below!

Free printable: Hold the ground you have already won.

Click here to print the full-size PDF.

My daughter came up with this project: a vinyl playing mat for Pokemon card tournaments.

Supplies:

• Vinyl fabric, 24 inches by 28 inches
• Metallic PenTouch markers in silver and gold
• Ruler
• Rectangle to trace (we cut one from cardboard)
• Circles to trace (we used a plate and a mug)
• Pokemon labels PDF (for reference)

In an effort to bond with my 10-year-old, I’ve been trying to get a handle on her longtime obsession: Pokemon. She competes at the tournament level and wanted to create a playing mat. She thought vinyl would be the best choice, since it’s more durable than paper and won’t fray like fabric.  Creative little gal, no?

We tested a few different markers and pens, and she loved the way the metallic PenTouch shimmered. Once dry, it won’t budge… we even tried cleaning an “oops” mark with water and then alcohol, and it was there to stay.

If you or your child would like to make one, take a look at the pictures for correct placement of the different card areas. Check out this Pokemon TCG PDF to see the labels you’ll need to write.

Or, get creative, and have your little boy draw a race track for his Hot Wheels, or a farm for his animals. Roll it up and throw it in a tote bag for portable playtime!

Make a paper amp for your iPhone with Made By Marzipan’s free printable template!

This paper amp works like an acoustic megaphone, directing and amplifying sound. It’s made from a single sheet of paper, so it’s eco-friendly, and doesn’t require batteries or a power source.

Supplies:

• Click here to download the free PDF template
• 1 sheet card stock, cut to 8.5 x 11 inches
• Glue Dots
• Scissors
• Single hole punch (optional)
• Computer & printer

How To:

1) Cut a sheet of card stock to 8.5 x 11 inches. Card stock works better than regular printer paper because the thicker card stock provides more insulation. (Make sure that the color of the paper is light enough that you’ll be able to see the printed gray lines.)

2) Click to download the free PDF template. (Currently I only have a pattern for the iPhone 4 & 4s available… if I get enough requests in the comments, I might add more versions.)

3) I want the floral pattern to be on the outside of my amp, and the stripes on the inside, so I’m printing on the striped side. Print on whichever side that you wish to be the inside of the amp.

4) The template is easy to put together. Begin by cutting on the solid black lines. (Do not cut the dotted lines, those are folding marks.)

5) Use a hole punch or scissors to make a cut-out for the home button. If your hole punch is too small, just punch several holes close together, being careful to stay within the lines of the circle.

6) Now we can fold the amp. With the printed side face up, begin folding along the dotted lines. The first two lines on the right will fold inward.

7) The piece marked “tab” will fold backwards.

8) The two horizontal lines next to the tab will fold down.

9) The vertical lines in the middle will fold inward like the first two.

10) The last horizontal piece will fold down.

11) And we’ll fold the large horn piece backwards for now to keep it out of the way.

You can see how the pieces fold together to make a box-like case for your phone. I highly recommend using Glue Dots for this project. You’re welcome to try other adhesives, but Glue Dots are quick and hold very well.

12) Add Glue Dots to the horizontally folded piece next to the left of the “tab” piece. You are placing the adhesive on the non-printed side of the paper.

13) Fold the paper over and press the piece with the glue dots right below the other horizontal fold line. See how it makes a box shape?

14) Now add glue dots to the horizontal piece and fold it downward, pressing it on top to secure.

15) Now we need to secure the flap on the left. Add glue dots along the edge of the non-printed side, and fold to line up with the edge of the box. Press down to adhere.

16) Next fold along each of the dotted lines on the horn piece. You are folding all of these inward.

17) Earlier we bent the horn piece backward to keep it out of the way while we folded the box. Now bend it forward, towards you.

18) We’re going to attach the right edge of the horn piece to the non-printed side of the tab. (Keep in mind that the fewer gaps you have, the louder the sound will be. So as you wrap the right side around the tab, take a look at the back, and adjust the paper to minimize the gap between the horn and the box.)

19) Now add glue dots along the inner edge of the left side, and fold to meet the center crease of the right side of the horn. Your paper amp is finished!

So how well does it work? You won’t have the same results you would if you plugged your phone into a speaker. But, your music should increase by about 25 decibels, comparable to other non-electrical phone amps.

Gel manicures can give you weeks of chip-free color… but are all brands created equal? Read this review before you buy!

First, a little info on what makes gel nail polishes different than regular nail polish. A gel manicure requires a lot of prep, so plan for about 30 minutes. Steps include:

1. Filing and buffing nails.
2. Cleaning nails with gel cleanser and lint-free cloth.
3. Applying a primer (sometimes referred to as a “dehydrator”).
4. Applying a base coat.
5. Curing base coat under UV light.
6. Applying the color polish.
7. Curing the color polish under UV light.
8. Applying a second coat of color polish.
9. Curing the second coat under UV light.
10. Applying a top coat.
11. Curing the top coat under UV light.
12. Cleaning nails with gel cleanser and lint-free cloth.

Whew! Why would anyone go through all that trouble? Gel nail polish has some unique benefits, including:

1. Smudge-proof after curing… no need to worry about smearing your left hand while painting your right.
2. Chip-resistant color. Really. You’re more likely to need a new manicure because your nails have grown out.
3. Incredible gloss. Remember how excited we were about the “Wet Shine” polishes? Gel polish puts it to shame.

Picking a Polish

A lot of gel polishes are popping up, so how to decide what to buy? Here’s my unbiased review of some of the biggest brands:

Gelish (by Nail Harmony)

Gelish Seafoam with Gelish Arctic White

Gelish was one of the first true gel polishes available, and with 119 colors currently on the market, you’re sure to find a shade you like.  You can find Gelish at beauty supply shops like Sally’s, but I haven’t seen them at drugstores yet.  The Gelish Mini comes in .3 oz bottles with a retail price of $14.95.

Since this is a pricey brand, I had high expectations, but I was disappointed. The watery consistency of the polish makes it difficult to achieve consistent coverage with the recommended two thin coats. It’s tempting to go for that third coat, but then the paint is more likely to chip because it’s too thick.

Gelish in You’re Such A Sweet Tart

Also, the color shown on the label isn’t very accurate. “Seafoam” is closer to sage. “Ambience,” a light pink with glitter, was completely sheer. “You’re Such A Sweet Tart,” which had a pear-green label, was closer to apple green. Open the bottle to peek at the true color before purchasing.

Overall: Not impressed with the watery consistency.

Sensationail by Nailene

Sensationail in Scarlet Red

Sensationail took gel polish mainstream, offering a complete kit including UV light, for under $50. The bottles in the starter kit are an itty bitty .125 oz, but bottles sold separately are .25 oz and retail for a reasonable $9.95.

One nice thing about the Sensationail brand is that they use the same polish for the base coat AND top coat, whereas other brands market a separate base and top coat.They currently have 48 shades available, although I’ve only seen about 20 in my local stores. They also offer 4 magnetic shades.

The downside? You can’t currently buy the various elements separately: if you need a refill of the base/topcoat, or need more gel cleanser, you have to purchase an “essentials kit” that contains all of the supplies. But, I’ve mixed and matched other brands with Sensationail (Kiss gel cleanser and Gelish Base Coat and Gelish Top Coat) and it worked just fine.

Overall: If you’re just getting started, I highly recommend purchasing the starter kit. It has everything you need, plus easy-to-read, illustrated instructions.

FingerPaints

Fingerpaints in Cool Blue Harmony

The gel Fingerpaints are fairly new and can be hard to find, but Sally’s carries them. These come in bigger bottles of .33 oz and retail for around $13. I was happily surprised by this polish, it went on much more smoothly than the Gelish. Bright, glossy color that matched the label. Too bad they only offer 24 colors.

One small problem: the color of the polish is printed on a plastic wrapper on the applicator, and the wrapper has a tendency to slide off. No big deal, I just added a dab of polish to the top of the bottle for easy identification.

Overall: Great value.

Everlasting Gel Polish by Kiss

Anybody else having a hard time finding these? I’ve only seen them at Walgreen’s. Everlasting gel polish is available in .30 oz bottles, in 15 colors, and retail for around $11.

There are a couple of things unique to this brand: 1) the base coat has a built-in primer, saving you a step, and 2) it removes much more quickly than the other brands mentioned.

While it’s nice that it only takes 5 minutes to take off the polish, it does have a tendency to peel at the corners after a week or so.

Overall: I wouldn’t invest in this brand, because 1) there aren’t many colors available, and 2) the formula is different enough that it doesn’t mix well with other brands.

Sensationail French Tips

Sensationail French Tips

I had to add a section for these, because they seemed like such a great idea! I was excited to try these out, but they were a big disappointment. They were tricky to apply, and had a tendency to crack when trimming and filing. I spent a lot of time getting the manicure just right, but within two days they had all chipped and looked terrible.

I hope Sensationail gives this product another try, because it’s a great idea in theory.

Overall: Skip it!

What’s your favorite brand of gel polish? Leave your comments below!

A little paint turns a paper bag, a cardboard box, and a soda tab into this lovely bay leaf wreath.

Supplies:

• Brown grocery bag
• Scissors
• Free printable template (click here)
• Sakura Koi® Tube Watercolors
• Paintbrush & water
• Cardboard box
• Plate & bowl to trace
• Sakura Cray-Pas® Junior Artist Oil Pastels
• Hot glue gun & gluesticks
• Soda can tab

How To:

1) You’ll need a brown paper grocery bag. One large bag should be enough to make two 12-inch wreaths. Begin by cutting the bag along the center side crease, and across the bottom, so you can lay the bag flat.

2) Next we’ll mix the watercolor paint. I’ve mentioned before that my favorite paints are Sakura’s Koi® Tube Watercolors, because they give you complete control over the intensity and consistency of the paint. For this project, you’ll add quite a bit of water. I used about 1/4 cup of water to a ¼ teaspoon of paint.

3) Paint the paper bag with the watercolors. Allow the paint to pool in some areas for variation. You’ll notice that as the bag absorbs the paint, the color will fade some. If you’d like more intense color, allow the bag to dry and add another layer of paint.

4) Flip over the bag and paint the backside as well. This will make the leaves seem more realistic when viewed from different angles. Hang the bag or prop upright to dry for 15 minutes.

5) Now you can cut out the leaves. A bay leaf is a raindrop shape, about 3 ½ inches long. You can draw your own pattern, or you can print my free printable template (click here).

6) Fold the painted bag accordion-style, making sure your folds are wide enough to fit the leaf. Use the template to cut several leaves at once.

7) Next fold each leaf lengthwise, creating a center crease. Draw a vein down the crease with a brown Cray-Pas®  Junior Artist Oil Pastel. Rub the mark with your fingers to blend.

8) It’s time to make the wreath form. If you’d like a 3-dimensional wreath, you could add the leaves to a store-bought form. But today we’re recycling, so we’ll make a flat form with a cardboard box. Trace a dinner plate to make a circle and cut out.

9) Then trace a bowl or saucer in the center of the cardboard circle and cut out.

10) Now we’ll use a hot glue gun to add the leaves. You’ll want to cover the cardboard entirely. The tips of your leaves should extend slightly past the edge of the cardboard, and you should place them so they follow the curve of the wreath form.

11) There are a couple of tricks to keep in mind. First, notice how the paint has changed the texture of the bag, making it easy to bend and shape. Curl the tips of some leaves upward, and some backward. Twist some leaves to the right, some the the left. The leaves will hold the shape you give them.

12) The second trick is to always place the round end of the leaf below the leaves you glued previously. To do this, add a dab of hot glue to the round end, then lift the edges of the glued leaves to slide the next leaf beneath. You do not want to glue leaves on top of other leaves. You should only add glue to the round end of the leaf, and not the sides or pointed tip.

13) Finally, you can hot glue a soda can tab to the backside of the wreath as a hanger. A bent paperclip would work as well.

One last tip– you can make this a fall wreath by painting the leaves in various autumn colors. It would make a beautiful centerpiece for the Thanksgiving table!

I’ve been a paid, professional crafter for 7 years now. Sometimes it’s messy. Sometimes it’s stressful. Sometimes I find glitter in my hair and washi tape on my behind. But nothing compares to the joy of creating something beautiful.

Here are my top tips to help you keep things simple. Find the joy of carefree crafting…

1. Keep it!

Clearly, you don’t want to end up on an episode of Hoarders. But you can save a lot of money (and trips to the store) if you keep certain small items.

Here’s a list of crafting items I like to save:

• Chipboard. You can often find this as a backing on pads of paper, and sometimes included in product packaging. Although this type of chipboard probably isn’t acid-free, it can be used on cards or as inserts for sewing projects.

• Zippers. If I need to discard an item that has a zipper, I cut out the zipper first. I don’t bother unpicking it, I just cut close to the tape.  If I’m sewing a late night project and need a zipper RIGHT NOW, I don’t mind the couple of minutes it takes to unpick. Plus it saves me at least $1.50!

• Old tee shirts. These are great for upcycled projects. I like to sew with these because there’s no pressure… if I don’t love the finished project, I didn’t lose any money! These are also perfect for creating no-fuss ruffles. I only keep as many shirts as I can fit in one large, clear bedding storage bag.

• Small jars. Baby food jars are especially great. Remove the labels and pop them in the dishwasher. I use these to organize a lot of my items… buttons, pins, brads, beads, etc.

• Buttons. I think buttons are ridiculously overpriced.  Always cut off the buttons before you discard an item, it only takes a few seconds and they take up hardly any storage space.

Watch a (very old) video of how I organize my paper-crafting supplies here.

2. Organize it!

I don’t care if you have a cupboard, a closet, or an entire room dedicated to crafting. You must keep your supplies organized if you want to stay sane. Buy bins or boxes that stack to make the most of your space. Check out the dollar store first.

Small pails work nicely for pens, markers, and glue sticks. Target’s Dollar Spot often has them. Consider adding hooks to a wooden board (a single fence picket works well) and hanging the pails to keep them off your workspace.

Keep stickers and rub-ons in binders, and small fabric scraps in gallon-size plastic bags (sorted by color or fabric type) and stash them in a filing cabinet.

See how I organize my sewing room here!

3. Cover it!

Either your crafting table is nice, and you’d like to keep it that way… or it’s junky and makes you feel uninspired. I always cover my work desk in pretty wrapping paper before I start a new project. It freshens up my craft room, and I can get paint or glue on it. Sometimes I write sewing notes or test out a pen right on the covered desktop.

You should also cover your carpet or flooring if possible. Acrylic paint is a pain to get out of carpet, and lost pins are hard to find (until you step on one).

My sewing room floor has a huge cutting mat placed face-down on the carpet (on sale for $30 at JoAnn Fabric). My desk chair rolls nicely on it without leaving dents, pins are easy to see and pick up, and if I spill paint I can wipe it up easily.

While we’re at it, I should mention that I also cover my craft studio’s windows with a sheet of white butcher paper. This diffuses the light and makes it better for photography.

4. Sleep on it!

Not literally, of course. Unless it’s a Stamped Monogram Pillowcase or a Pillow Pal.

Whatever the project is, stop working on it when you’re tired. If you keep making silly mistakes or you’re feeling frustrated, remember that crafting should be fun. Go to bed. Trust me, when you look at it in the morning, it will make a lot more sense.

5. Salvage it!

So your project might not look like the one you saw on Pinterest. But in my opinion, there are very few true “craft fails.” (See one of mine, and how I salvaged it, here.)

Sometimes you have to let the project lead the way. Improvise. Did your quilt squares come out skewed? Cut them into angled strips and make a crazy quilt. Is your watercolor painting unrecognizable? Trim a corner of it down to create a card.

If all else fails, add glitter. Isn’t everything better with glitter?

6. Sell it?

Whether you should choose to sell your creations can be a hard decision. There are a few things you should consider first.

• Will you enjoy creating items for strangers as much as you do for yourself, or your loved ones? Sometimes it can be hard to part with a piece that you’ve poured so much love into!

• Is it worth your time? Say you spend two hours making a necklace. You check out similar items online and $20 seems like a fair price point. Subtract your supplies, about $4, and any listing fees, about $1. Say it it takes another hour to photograph, list, and ship. That means you’ve earned $5 an hour. Is it worth it?

• Is there a market for it? I hate to say it, but it’s hard to break into Etsy or Artfire this late in the game, unless your items are truly unique. Do a little research first, searching for items online that are similar to yours. If you don’t see anything like it, there’s a good chance you can make a niche for yourself.

Visit my Etsy shop here, or my Craftsy shop here.

Share your own carefree crafting tips in the comments section below!

Supplies:

• Watercolor paper
• Graphite paper
• Cray-Pas® oil pastels
• Koi® tube watercolors
• Computer & printer paper
• Tape, pencil, paintbrush

Supply Tips

You’ll need watercolor paper. This paper is thick and slightly textured to better hold the paint. You can find it in the art supply section of most stores.

You’ll also need graphite paper. Sometimes you can find it with the fine art supplies, but you’ll probably have better luck looking in the sewing section as it’s often used for pattern design. This variety pack of transfer paper was bought at JoAnn, by the quilting notions. This type of graphite paper can be re-used several times.

For the color version of this portrait, I’ll be adding accents with Sakura’s Cray-Pas® Junior Artist oil pastels. This is optional, but it adds a pop of contrast and texture.

Finally, you’ll need watercolor paints. I recommend Sakura’s Koi® tube watercolors because they allow you to control the intensity and consistency of the paint.

Prep Your Portrait Photo

First, you’ll need to select a portrait photo and change it to black and white. I don’t mean the grayscale of a typical black and white photograph. It must be reduced to only two shades: black and white.

This option may be found under “posterize” in photo editing programs, but I’ll quickly show you how to do it in Microsoft Word.

1. Open a blank document.
2. Click the Insert menu and then select Picture.
3. Choose From File.
4. Open the desired photo.
5. Right click on the photo and select Format Picture.
6. Choose Recolor, and select Black and White.

It may take some trial and error to find a photo that looks great when reduced to two colors. I found that head shots with side lighting seem to look best.

Trace The Photo

Once your picture is printed, you’ll need to trace it. Lay the watercolor paper down, then layer the graphite paper on top of it, face down. In other words, the darkest side of the graphite paper will be against the watercolor paper. Then lay your printed picture on top.

Lightly tape the layers together with masking tape or washi tape to prevent shifting.

Next trace the black areas of the picture. You can use a pen, but I prefer a fine mechanical pencil since it’s easier to see the areas you’ve traced. Press firmly to transfer the graphite to the watercolor paper.

Carefully peel back the graphite paper to peek at your work. Make sure you haven’t missed any areas before you untape the photo and graphite paper.

Paint The Picture

Now you should have a perfect outline of your photo, so making this portrait will be as easy as filling in a coloring page. I’ll be making a full-color version and a monochromatic version.

I’ve decided to add some accents to the full-color version using Sakura’s Cray-Pas® Junior Artist oil pastels.

Now it’s time to paint! When using the tube watercolors, a little goes a long way. Fill in all of the areas that were black on your printed photo. I like to make a partial outline with a dark shade, then water down the paint to fill in the rest of the shape.

After your paper is completely dry, you can go back and gently erase the graphite lines with a kneaded eraser. I happen to like the lines, so I’ll leave them alone.

I also made a version using only blue. Monochromatic paintings are fun to do with tube watercolors, because it’s so easy to adjust the intensity of the paint. So even though it’s all one hue, the painting contains a variety of tones.

Make a portrait of newlyweds for a wedding present, or a portrait of the kids for grandma. They won’t believe you painted it yourself!

A 2-in-1 Art Tote makes playtime portable! Use chalk on one side and dry erase markers on the other. Store supplies in the center pouch.

Supplies:

• Outer fabric (16.5 x 8.5 in)
• Iron-on interfacing (16.5 x 8.5 in)
• Inner fabric, white (9 x 8.5 in)
• Chalkboard fabric (9 x 8.5 in)
• Iron-on vinyl (1 yd)
• Velcro
• Large button & Hair Elastic (optional)
• Chalk & dry erase markers

Supply Tips:

I bought the chalkboard fabric at JoAnn, you can find it by the utility fabrics. I purchased the iron-on vinyl from WalMart, it’s kept by the bolts of interfacing.

How To:

1) Begin by cutting a piece of outer fabric and a piece of iron-on interfacing to 16.5 x 8.5 in. Iron the interfacing to the back of the fabric.

2) Cut a piece of inner fabric (white), a piece of chalkboard fabric, and a piece of iron-on vinyl to 9 x 8.5 in.

3) Prime the chalkboard fabric by coloring the entire surface with a piece of chalk. Wipe off the chalk and the fabric is ready to use.

4) Add the iron-on vinyl to the inner (white) fabric piece. Peel the backing off the vinyl and adhere to the front of the fabric. Lay the paper backing on top of the vinyl and iron. Be very careful not to touch the vinyl with the iron.

5) Repeat the steps with the two inner pocket pieces (white). This will make the interior of the pocket easy to clean if necessary. The pocket pieces should each measure 7×6 in.

Creating the Pocket

6) Next we’ll create the pocket. You should have two inner pocket pieces with vinyl. You will also need to cut two 7×6 inch pieces for the outside of the pocket, using the outer fabric.

7) Pin a piece of Velcro to the middle of each vinyl pocket piece, about 1 inch from the top short edge. Sew the Velcro in place.

8) Now layer the pocket pieces together. First put an inner vinyl piece face down. Then comes an outer fabric face up. Next is the remaining outer fabric face down. Finally, add the other inner vinyl piece face up.

9) Pin together and sew, leaving the top edge open. Begin sewing about a 1/2 inch from the top edge so it’s easy to turn under later.

10) Trim the corners, then turn right side out. Poke out the corners with a blunt tool.

11) Turn the raw top edges inward and pin. Sew around the top edge with a 1/8 inch seam. You don’t want to sew the pocket shut, so you’ll need to rotate the fabric as you sew.

12) Sandwich the pocket piece between the chalkboard fabric and the vinyl-covered fabric. Sew together along the left side with a  1/2 in. seam. (It’s a good idea to trim this inner seam to about a 1/4 inch so the tote will lay flatter.)

Adding Ribbon Handles

13) Next we’ll add the ribbon handles. You’ll need about 22 inches of ribbon. Fold under the raw edge of the ribbon and begin pinning in the center of the outer fabric piece. It should be two or three inches away from the side, depending on the width of your ribbon.

14) Make a loop that extends past the edge of the tote to create the handle. Add a pin about an inch from the edge of the fabric to remind yourself to stop sewing here… otherwise your handles will get caught within your seams later.

15) Sew the ribbon in place, first down the outer edge of the ribbon, then along the inner edge. Remember to stop sewing an inch away from the edge of the fabric.

Button Closure (Optional)

16) Now it’s time for the button closure. (This is optional, since the pocket has Velcro.) To add the button closure, pin a hair elastic to the center of one short end of the outer piece. The elastic should be pointing inward. If the elastic has a metal clasp, extend it past the edge of the fabric and you can trim it later.

17) Sew in place with a zig-zag stitch and a 1/4 inch seam. Backstitch for durability. Trim off the excess elastic.

18) Sew a button on the opposite short end of the tote. Make sure you place it far enough down that it won’t interfere with your seams. A button without a shank provides a smoother drawing surface.

Assembling the Tote

19) It’s finally time to assemble our tote! Pin the handles down, towards the center of the tote, so they won’t get caught in the seams. Layer the two pieces right sides together and pin.

20) Sew around the edges with a 1/2 inch seam, remembering to leave a 4-inch hole along the top edge of the vinyl page for turning. Trim the corners and turn right side out.

21) Turn the edges of the hole inward and pin. Topstitch all the way around the tote with a 1/8 inch seam.

22) Topstitching between the pages will help the book to lay flatter.

Add dry erase markers, chalk, and a piece of flannel for an eraser to the center pocket.  Now your little artist can create anywhere! Upload your project pictures right here in the comments section.